Iran is not known for its beaches. Of course, men and women have to bathe separately and for this purpose pieces of beach and sea are separated with corrugated iron walls. The amount of rubbish lying around doesn’t make it any better. But for the Iranians, who will probably come here in a fortnight, the biggest attraction is the frequent rain, which provides a dense forest on the mountains in the background and also allows tea to flourish. Where it is not built up, the coastal strip with rice fields and the mountains behind is very reminiscent of Vietnam.