In Syria, I enjoyed sleeping on a mattress on the roof terrace. Not only is it cheaper, you also meet many other travellers and the evening breeze keeps you cool. The roof terrace in Beirut, on the other hand, is different. A few beds stand here wedged in a steel scaffolding that supports the billboard towering directly above me, illuminated by powerful spotlights. “Hopelessly devoted to you” is written there. How absurd.